iSericulture

©Marinda Louw

Imveliso ye silk yaqala kwiliwe lase China. Imbali ithi i-Empress Hsi Ling Shi, nowayengu nkosikazi we Emperor uHuang Ti, nowakwaziwa njenge Emperor eTyheli, wafumanisa nge silkwork cocoon emva kokuba iwele kwi komiyi yakhe ye tea. Le empress yayiyithanda kakhulu isilk kwaye yade yafuya iisilkwork yaze yeza nemveliso ye reel kunye ne loom. 

Ilizwe lase China layigcina iyimfihlo indlela isilk yayiveliswa ngayo. Le mfihlo yayigcina ii millennia ezintathu. Kwaye nabani na owayethi azame ukuba amaqanda, iicocoon okanye iisilkworm wayebulawa ngoko nangoko. Abathengisi kwakufuneka bahambe indlela enobungozi ebizwa nge Silk Route; neyayingu mgama ongaphaya kwama 6 500 km miles ukusuka eMpuma China ukuya kwi Mediterranean. Ayenqumla intlango ye Makan kunye neentaba ze Pamir ukuya kuthenga le silk. Uninzi lwalungabinakho ukulugqiba olu hambo, babeye baphelele endleleni. 

Kukho amabali ohlukileyo mayelana nokuvela kwale mfihlo ye silk. Elinye lawo lithi inkosazana yeba amaqanda yawafihla ezinweleni ngethuba isiya kutshata nenkosana yelinye ilizwe. Elinye lithi, abaphambukeli base China bemka namaqanda ngethuba besiya kumanye amazwe ase Mpuma. 

Intshona yakufumanisa oku malunga neminyaka ye 550 C.E ngethuba i-Emperor yase Byzantine uJustinian wathumela iimonk ezimbini embindi Asia, nezathi zaphuma nalamaqanda ziwafake kwi bamboo staves.

iMveliso yeHlabathi Jikelele

Ilizwe lase China lisahamba phambili kushishino lwe sericulture, lilandelwe lelase India. Izibalo ezingephi zikwaveliswa nakumazwe afane ne Korea, Thailand, kunye ne Brazil.

Imveliso Yase Lizweni

Ukusukela kwiminyaka yoo 1600s, imithi eyahlukeneyo ye mulberry yaziswa kwilizwe lo Mzantsi Afrika isuka kumazwe ase Thailand, Taiwan, kunye nase Indonesia. Ngomnyaka ka 1726, kwathi kwaziswa iisilkworms kweli lizwe ziziswa yi Nkampani ye Dutch East India Company.

I-silk yaye yaveliswa ngamakhoboka, ze ekuhambeni kwexesha kwenziwa iinzame zokuseka iprojekthi ye sericulture engasebenzisi makhoboka kufuphi nase Stellenbosch. 

Ngeminyaka ye sentyuri 19, iiingcali ze sericulture zama Taliyane zeza kwilizwe loMzantsi Afrika ukuze ziqalise ushishino lwe silk kwindawo yase Gouna, nekufutshane nedolophu yase Knysna kwiPhondo lase Ntshona Koloni. Ezi ngcali zazicinga ukuba ziza kuqalisa lomsebenzi ngoko nangoko, kodwa ke, kwindawo yase Gouna kwakungekho mithi ye mulberry. Oku kwathetha ukuba kufanele babhenele u ekugawuleni iinkuni nokulima ukuze baphile. Imithi ye mulberry eyathi yatyalwa ekuhambeni kwexesha ayizange ilunge ngenxa yemozulu ezingavumelaniyo nokukhula kwayo.

Ngeminyaka yoo 1980, iSebe le Zolimo noFuyo lwaqala iprojekthi ye sericulture kwiPhondo lase Mpumalanga. Kwahlolwa amatyeli amaninzi ukujonga iindidi ezahlukeneyo zemithi ye mulberry, kunye neendlela zolulimo nemveliso. Ngomnyaka ka 1994, iprojekthi ye mulberry yathathwa lisebe labucala emva kokuba urhulumente wasilela kwinkxaso mali ngenxa yamaxabiso ayo aphezulu kunye nengeniso ephantsi.

Imveliso

Enye yeefama ezimbalwa esele zishiyekile ze sericulture kwilizwe loMzantsi Afrika ikwiPhondo lase Mpumalanga kufuphi ne Graskop. Le fama inesibalo esimalunge ne 6 ha ekulinywe kuwo imithi ye mulberry ngomnyaka ka 2019. Le mithi iyathenwa rhoqo emva kweeveki ezisi 6 ukuya kwi 8 seeveki, ibe ngamatyholo ukuze kubelula ukulawula imveliso. Le mithi iye igecwe ebusika ize iphinde ikhuliswe ngokutsha entwasahlobo. Akukho mithi mitsha sele ikhe yatyalwa ukusukela ngomnyaka ka 1994 ngenxa yobungozi bale mithi yokufunxela ezinye izityalo amanzi (invasive species).

Ixesha Lokuvuna

Nangona iisilkworm ezigcinwa ngabantana besikolo zinemijileko efikelela kwisibini yokukhula, Inkampani ye Africa Silk yenza ubuchule bokuba zivelise isilk unyaka wonke. Ngokuka Ronel Swart, umnikazi wale nkampani, amaqanda ayabandiswa ukuze abenakho ukuvelisa amantshontsho amanyiki rhoqo emva kweeveki ezimbini. 

Iminyiki eselula ye silkworm ifumana amagqabi amancinane kuphela kuba iintlafuno zawo azikagqibeleli; ngoko ke kubanzima ukuba zitye amagqabi amakhulu. Le minyiki ityiswa nakahlanu ngemini. Kuxhomekeka ke ukuba anexesha elingakanani ekhona. Ilarvae iqala ukujija iicocoon zayo malunga neentsuku ezingamashumi amathathi emva kokuqandusela. 

Kuthatha malunga ne khilogrem enye ukukhulisa iisilkworm ezingama 50, nalapho isilkworm nganye ivelisa malunga ne 0.2 kg ye silk. Oku kuthetha ukuba kudingeka malunga nama 4761 eecocoon ukuvelisa malunga ne khilogrem ye silk.

Iindidi Ezifumanekayo

I-silk iveliswa yi Bombyx mori, neyintlobo ethile ye silkworm ekusapho lwe Bombycidae. Zikhona nezinye izinambuzane ezinakho ukuvelisa isilk. Ezinye zezi zinambuzane ngamanyiki abizwe nge Mopani, kodwa ayivelisi silk ikumgangatho ofanayo nowe silkworm. Inkoliso yale silk ikwafumaneka nasendle.

Intengiso

Inkampani eyi Africa Silk ithengisa iiprocessed silk yayo phakathi elizweni nakumazwe angaphandle, ingakumbi amazwe ase Europe.

iMisebenzi

I-silk ayixinengana, nto leyo iyenza ukuba ilungele ukwenza impahla ezikhaphu khaphu nezingekho shushu emzimbeni. Ikugcina ufudumele ngexesha lase busika ze ikugcine upholile ehlotyeni; kwaye lelona laphu lomeleleyo lendalo. Yiyo lonto isetyenziswa ukuvelisa izinto ezifana ne parachutes kunye namavili ebhaysikili.  

Iifilament ze silk zine propathi ezilwa nentsholongwane kwaye zisetyenziswa kakhulu kwezamayeza. Zisetyenziselwa ukwenza ii-arterial kunye nezinye ii-prosthetics ukunyanga amanxeba nezilonda zokutsha.

Translated by Zizipho Silwana