Ti Alpaca Fleece

© Marinda Louw

Ti Alpacas I swiharhi leswi fuyiwaka nale kaya leswinga swirho swati camelids tale South American. Titirhisiwile kuringana malembe lawa yotala swinene hikokwalaho ka voya lebyi kufumelaka naku vevuka. Lebyi tsemetiwaka kan’we hi lembe hinkarhi wa ximun’wana, ti alpacas tikota ku cinca swakudya kuva swihundzuka wool naswona switekiwa swiri swiharhi leswi humelerisaka kahle fibre.

Swiaki swa Alpaca Fibre

©Marinda Louw

Alpaca fibre yi vevukile swinene naswona byi langute ehansi, onge i silk, loko u byi khumbha. Byi vikiwa kuva byitiye kwalomu ka ntlhanu byi tlhela byi vevuka kutlula wool naswona byi lehile kutlula voya byotala bya ntumbuluko. Kuna swilo swotala swinene leswi endlaka leswaku voya bya alpaca byi vevuka. Voya bya alpaca yin’wana na yin’wana byina magwaru ‘scales’ lawa yanga tshama hi ndlela yo hambana na voya. Kuleha ka magwaru ya voya bya alpaca byi kwalomu ka 0.04 microns loko ku pimanyisiwa na 0.08 microns ya wool. Leswi, kuya hi ntiyiso swivula leswaku alpaca fibre yivevuke kutlula wool. Laha magwaru yanga leha ku hundza wool xikan’we na mohair, nakambe swi antswisa kurhetela ka alpaca fibre ehenhla ka tinxaka letin’wana timbirhi ta fibre. 

Alpaca fibre ayi tsakamisiwi hi mati, yi kondzelela miseve ya dyambu naswona yina timbhovo leti nghenisaka moya leti voniwaka hi microscope leswi endlaka leswaku yikota ku hlayisa mahiselo. 

Ayina lanolin, leyinga mafurha lawa ya humesiwaka hi swiharhi leswi humelerisaka wool. Masalela yati khemikhali leti lavekaka kuhunguta lanolin kusuka eka voya bya nyimpfu leswi hi xitalo swivangaka ku hlohlonya leswi kombisaka ti allergy. Hambiswiritano, alpaca fibre ayi vangi kuhlohlonya naswona yi lulamerile kuva yitirhisiwa eka swiambalo swavana xikan’we na vanhu lavangana nhlonge leyi nyenyelaka.  

Alpaca fleece yita hi mihlovo ya 22 yohambana hambana xikan’we na mintlawa yaku vevuka leyinga exikarhi ka 16 na 30 microns. Loko ti micron tiri ehansi swiendla leswaku yivevuka xikan’we no rhetela. Mihlovo yisukela eka yobasa, vu buraweni xikan’we na mpunwa kuya eka ntima laha muhlovo wobasa wunga lowunga tala swinene.

Tinxaka ta Ti Alpaca Fleece

©Marinda Louw

Kuna tinxaka timbirhi tati phenotypes tati alpacas, muxaka wa Huacaya lowungana fibre yofana na ya xinyimpfu ya xiponci naswona Suri alpaca leyinga leha, yitlhela yi rhetela. Huacaya fibre yina wavy fibre leyi tshamaka yiri eka xivumbeko xin’we nkarhi hinkwawo naswona yiva yi lulamele ku endla switirhisiwa leswi nga rhungiwa. Suri fibre yi endla onge i silk naswona yitsakeriwa ngopfu eka switirhisiwa swa xiyimo xale henhla swofana na tisuti ta alpaca. 

Alpaca fleece yifanele ku vekiwa kahle eka ntlawa kuhunguta kuva byiva voya lebyinga tiyela. Swilo swofana na ti genetics toka tingari kahle, vukona byale henhla bya ti protein content eka swakudya swa alpaca, xikan’we na vukhale bya xiharhi swinga endla leswaku voya byi tsindziyela.

Kululamisiwa ka Ti Alpaca Fleece

©Marinda Louw

Tkuna swilo swotala swinene leswi khumbekaka eka vuhumelerisi bya switirhisiwa swa alpaca fibre. Maendlelo lawa ya sungula hiku tshoveriwa ka fleece. Alpaca fleece (kumbe fibre) yi tshoveriwa kan’we hi lembe hi September kumbe October, kuya hi xiyimo xa xixika xa tiko ra Afrika Dzonga. Hinkwato letikulu na leti ntsongo (crias) kusukela eka vukhale bya ntsevu wa tinhweti swa keriwa hi munhu loyi anga tokota ku kera hiku tirhisa xitirhisiwa lexi fanaka na lexi tirhisiwaka ku kera voya bya tinyimpfu. Leyintsongo cria yihumesa kwalomu ka 1 kg ya fibre loko alpaca leyikulu yinga humesa kwalomu ka 2.5 kg kumbe kutlula. 

Kutani fibre yi tirhiseriwa mavoko ku basisa xikan’we na thyaka leringavaka rivangiwe hi swimilani kungava mitwa kumbe byasi. Kutani ku katsiwa alpaca fibre ya muhlovo lowu fanaka. Van’wana va humelerisi vati alpaca fleece vanga hlengeleta swiphemu leswi fanaka hi muhlovo swa fibre. Xikombis, ya muhlovo wa buraweni kusuka eka xiharhi xobasa lexingana vala ra buraweni. 

Skirting I maendlelo lawa ya tirhisiwaka loko ku keriwa voya (kumbe loko kuhetiwile) loko voya byo tiyela ‘guard hair’ - lebyinga pimiwaka kutlula kwalomu ka 30 microns bya susiwa kusuka eka lebyi vevukaka bya fleece. Ntirho wunene waku susa voya wu susa voya lebyi lulameke byo bumbula.

Fibre yitekiwa yi rhumeriwa eka ndzhawu yo hlawuleka ya vululamisi e Butterworth exifundzheni xa Eastern Cape. Ku tirhisiwa ka michini leyi tirhisiwaka ku lulamisa mohair ayi swikoti ku lulamisa alpaca fibre. Fibre yisungula hiku hlantswiwa kuya hiku hambana ka mihlovo, yi omisiwa hi moya kutani yi nekiwa. Ku yineka swiendla leswaku alpaca fibres yi ololoka yiva hi mintila. Endzhaku ka sweswo ti fibre tiva tilulamerile kuva tiya cheriwa eka muchini wa spinning leswaku yita lukiwa kumbe weaving yarns.

Ti Genetics nati Alpaca Fleece

Ku fuwela muxaka wokarhi wa muhlovo wa fleece I ntirho lowu tikaka eka vufuwi bya alpaca ngopfu ngopfu muhlovo wa mpunwa. Vulavisisi byo enta bya endliwa ehenhla ka muhlovo lowu, ku vula Alison Notley, president wa South African Alpaca Breeders Society xikan’we n’winyi wa Helderstroom Alpacas.

Tiko ra Australia ri endla swotala ku antswisa khwalithi ya alpaca fleece ngopfu ngopfu kuya hiku hambana ka kubumbula ka fibre, leswi hungutaka swiphemu swo hlawuleka swa fleece kutani  swi hunguta ratio yati primary nati secondary fibres (voya byo tiyela).

Translated by Ike Ngobeni