Mohair eAfrika Dzonga

©Justin Fox
Mbuti leyintsongo ya Angora goat yitumbuluke kusuka e Middle Eastern region yale Turkey. Swifuwo swosungula – ya xisati yin’we na12 ta xinuna- titisiwile e Afrika Dzonga hi 1838, kambe kukumeke leswaku hinkwato ta xinuna atinga tswali. Nkateko wakona hileswaku leyi ya xisati se ayi bihe e mirini naswona yitsale ximbutani xa xinuna. Swifuwo swotala switisiwile e Afrika Dzonga exikarhi ka 1857 na 1868 kufikela loko sultan yale Turkey yiyimise kutisa swifuwo. Va fuwi wa Angora Goat vasungule nhlangano hi 1892 naswona namuntlha yitiveka tani hi Angora Ram Breeders.
Mohair yi humelerisiwa eka kwalomu ka 1000 wa mapurasi ya Angora goat etikweni ya Afrika Dzonga. Kuna kwalomu ka 700 wa mapurasi lawa kulu swinene kuva yavuriwa ‘commercial producers', laha lawa yanga sala ya 300 i vahumelerisi lavantsongo. Loko timbuti se ti keriwe voya bya tona titekiwa kuyisiwa e Nelson Mandela Bay hiti brokers lava xavisaka fibre (hair) eka auction.
Mohair kusuka eka Afrika Dzonga, yitisiwa e Nelson Mandela Bay (Port Elizabeth ndzhawu yale xifundzeni xa Eastern Cape) laha yitirhisiwaka kona. Harbour yale Port Elizabeth hiyona yiri yoxe leyi xavisaka mohair kusuka e Afrika Dzonga kuya eka matiko yale handle.

Dzovo Kusuka eka Timbuti

©Marinda Louw
Timbuti ta Angora e Afrika Dzonga tifuweriwa kuhumelerisa mohair. Mohair i fibre yotsanyuka leyi kufumelaka, yovevuka no hlayiseka naswona yikahle naswona yinga kota ku hatla yi dayiwa. Yitirhisiwa ngopfu eka industry ya vumaki bya swiambalo, majesi (hi mavoko na kurhunga hi muchini), makheteni, swo endla masofa na minkumba. Mohair yi hambanile na wool hikuva ya rhetela naswona yilarile swinene.
Mbuti ya Angora yinga humelerisa kwalomu ka 5 kg ya mohair naswona yilava ku keriwa kambirhi hi lembe naswona yikula kuya fika exikarhi ka 12 - 15 cm endzhaku ka 6 wa tinhweti tin’wana na tin’wana. Voya bya Angora byifanele kuringana hiku leha na ku olova ka byona, byi fanele ku komba byiri kahle no tiyela naswona byingari na mihlovo yin’wana nati kemp fibres. (Kemp fibres i swin’wana swobasa, swolala swinene leswi talaka ku katsiwa na voya bya ntolovelo bya xihari.)
Mokair ya khwalithi yita hi switayele swimbirhi- ya xivumbeko xa swipiringi xikanwe naleyi yo phambarhala- naswona yi xavisiwa hiti giredi tinharhu: yo vevuka, yale xikarhi na yo tsindziyela. Giredi yi vekiwa hikokwalaho ka vukhale bya mbuti ya Angora.
Vuhumelerisi bya Mohair byitala ku hlanganisiwa na vuhumelerisi bya nyama ya mbuti kutiyisisa leswaku kuna mali yovonaka leyi nghenaka lembe hinkwaro. Khwalithi ya nyama kusuka eka timbuti letintsongo iya khwalithi ya kahle kambe ntsumbu wakona wuntsongo wutlhela wu lala kutlula wa nyimpfu leyinga phameriwa swakudya leswifanaka.

©Marinda Louw
Cashmere, yihumelerisiwa kusuka eka eka voya byalendzeni bya dzovo rambuti naswona yihumelerisiwa hi nhlayo yale hansi kusuka eka muxaka wa timbuti ta iMbuzi kusuka e Butterworth exifundzheni xa Eastern Cape. Timbuti totala ta xikaya tiva na cashmere exikarhi ka voya bya tona naswona swihumelela hi vuxika leswaku tita sirheleleka eka xirhami, hi ximumu tisusa cashmere leyi wonge i wool.

Translated by Ike Ngobeni