An 800-hectare spread dating back to the early eighteenth century and in the Graaff family of politicians and farmers since 1875, De Grendel started adding vines to its mix of Holstein stud cattle and Merino sheep in 2000. Over 100 hectares were planted to 14 varieties, ranging from the major Bordeaux and Rhône red and white varieties to both Burgundy classics.
At the end of 2003, Sir David asked the vintner who'd been buying his grapes for advice on building a cellar. And the two joined forces in an exciting new venture exploring a prime new cool-climate location.
The maiden 2004 bottlings of De Grendel included wines from the area's two semmal varieties, both of which were favourites of the winemaker - sauvignon blanc and merlot - as well as a shiraz. But it wasn’t long before owner and vintner, who share a devotion to Bordeaux as well as souls of a poet-philosopher, produced the Rubáiyát.
'Quality is a calling from the vineyard,' says Charles, 'from mature, settled vines, perfectly balanced, naturally.' While De Grendel's vines attain that Arcadian state, early vintages of a classic four-varietal blend have been anchored by cabernet sauvignon sourced from a special patch of Helderberg vineyard over 30 years old.
Sir David's inspiration came from his grandfather's English translation of The Rubaiyat, a lyrical poem expressing both sensual and sensuous sentiments on life by eleventh-century Persian astronomer and mathematician Omar Khayyam. Each vintage will bear a different four-line 'quatrain' echoing the wine's quartet of varieties.
And so it was with pinot noir. Charles Hopkins had just started at De Grendel when Sir David returned from the United States inspired by their success with pinot noir. In enunciated tones, the winemaker recounts the baronet's request: 'He said: "Charles! Charles, I think we should plant pinot noir!" And that's when she came up and bit me, right here.' And he tweaks his side.
'She' refers to a variety renowned for being tricky in vineyard and cellar, requiring ultracool conditions and careful handling, its delicacy and elegance traditionally described as 'feminine' compared with mostly more robust reds. 'I’m really excited by our hilltop Op die Berg Pinot Noir; I'm dying to up quantities.'
The Graaff family has added two new acquisitions to its vineyard portfolio in prime red wine territory around Firgrove, the home of the Rubaiyat's special old cabernet block. Of one of the farms, the big man says with distinctly Gallic expressiveness: 'Pouf! Now there are some great vines!'
Charles Hopkins likes the scope offered by not being limited to making wine only from home farm fruit, 'especially as it's mainly a sauvignon blanc farm'. He makes two at this stage, the acclaimed Koetshuis Sauvignon Blanc joining the Op die Berg Pinot Noir and Winifred (an unusual barrel-treated blend of sémillon, chardonnay and viognier) as the farm's premium wines in 2010.
Charles Hopkins' goal is to prove the commercial viability of a new vineyard and winery like De Grendel. 'It's a promise I made Sir David. My next step is to take production from 25 000 cases [as of 2012 and a small percentage of the total crop] to 30 000 cases: little steps...'
Charles Hopkins is intrigued by the economics of wine production; he's well versed in every aspect from production costs to wine pricing. he may have the heart of a romantic, but on the subject of urban sprawl and property development encroaching on fine wine sites, he says with his oft-used kindly endearment: 'My love, don't go and get all tearful about the loss of great vineyards. I've learned not to get romantic about vines. I know how hard it is to make a profit from winemaking.'
Two things fascinate him about wine: terroir and its effect on fruit; and the analysis of wine. 'I’m no boffin and it's not about the chemistry per se; it's the scope of information from research that enthrals me. Like the "greenness" in South African wines currently being debated; and finding out that it’s not always "green" tannin from unripe fruit as first thought, but a particular character in a variety like cabernet sauvignon, for example, when grown in certain areas.'
The big man with the big heart is drawn to mentoring. He's just hosted one of the Guild’s protégés, usually youngsters from disadvantaged communities selected and sponsored in their winemaking studies. De Grendel’s two young vineyard managers he’s training as viticulturists are Zimbabweans who’d worked on rose and tobacco farms but escaped their homeland's economic ruin by working as waiters in Cape Town. 'Douglas Muzengeza and Kudzai Mwerenga are great; absolutely meticulous.'
Alikreukel (giant periwinkles) risotto with Bulgarian yoghurt recipe by Charles Hopkins....
Barbecued curried pork neck recipe by Charles Hopkins served with a crouton salad and paired with De Grendel Merlot....