'I’m not a patient man.' Surprising, because Boela Gerber exudes a sense of calm intent, of thoroughness and thought: just the man to carry the weight of heritage attached to making wine on what is arguably the oldest wine farm in South Africa.
Vintage 18
Groot Constantia, a sprawling complex of historical seventeenth- and eighteenth-century buildings and sites, is a National Monument and for 30 years was owned and managed by the government as a cultural and viticultural entity. Since 1993 it's been independently run by the Groot Constantia Trust, with a board of trustees charged with preserving and maintaining its cultural heritage for posterity.
'I’ve been with Groot Constantia since 2001. I can see myself here for another 10, 20, 30 years...'
Boela's a born and bred Kaapse klong, hailing from Durbanville: 'Behind the boerewors curtain,' he quips. Yet there is nothing of the country bumpkin or provincial about him, despite his strapping build, short blonde hair, and amiable broad-faced grin.
Boela Gerber lives in what has been dubbed 'the winemaker's house', home to some admired predecessors including Neil Ellis and the late Pieter du Toit. It's an unpretentious, serviceable mid-1900s home that has been added onto as required and as the budget intermittently allowed.
In this winemaker's case, when given the choice, he opted, very un-bachelor-like, for a new kitchen!'
But he kept his trusty old Defy stove. 'I’m used to it. And I'm more comfortable cooking on its solid plates, too. I know most keen cooks seem to prefer gas for its instant heat adjustment, but gas is actually not that great for simmering.'
There's no hanging about, wasting time when he's in the kitchen, although conversation flows while he chops and stirs. He's neat and precise. He washes up as he cooks. 'I don't have the luxury of a kitchen fairy! But Nombe comes in once a week.'
Elsewhere, everything has its place too. Camping equipment is neatly stacked in one corner of an annex, at the ready. A road bike and a mountain bike lean up against a wall, with a fly-fishing rod, waders, and caps.
'On my travels, I collect two things: art and cookery books.'
After 10 years in the house, he's still settling in... perhaps identified with by any self-respecting single man who spends large chunks of time, when not in the vineyards and cellar, personally marketing his wines on trips to everywhere from the southern Cape coast to China.
'China is a fascinating country. But after surviving on noodles and vegetables for a week, I realised I could never live without red meat... especially beef. But I also eat a lot of chicken.'
He's a regular at Rossouw Modern, curated by leading South African artist Joshua Rossouw in Groot Constantia's spacious tasting centre at the entrance to the estate - it's literally on his front doorstep!
Evidence of his forays awaits hanging, including Japanese-inspired canvases bought in Hong Kong and large, framed contemporary pieces by Belgian Juan Kiti, whose book of art and sculpture lies on the coffee table. Two small black-and-white photographs reflecting street life in France, taken on a working visit to Bordeaux, are evidence of Boela's own skills behind the lens and evoke fond memories.
'A young Frenchman Maxime Gamard and I were doing a harvest at a winery outside Bordeaux and sharing a really dismal place at the arse end of the city. We'd been putting off doing laundry for ages until one Sunday we realised we'd finally run out of wearable clothes. We schlepped off to find a Laundromat but then didn't have the right number of coins. So we popped into a street cafe and had a quick beer to get some change. Every time we needed to do another load or use the tumble drier, we had to go and have another beer to get the exact number of coins. By the time our clothes were done, we were pretty merry. It's the most fun I've ever had doing laundry!'
'You've got to have a sense of humour in life!'
Ask Boela Gerber how many vintages he has under his belt and he'll tot up 18 and then add six: the harvests abroad since 1998. 'I’m hoping to get to the Rhône Valley next. I try and go every second year, if possible, although I think I'm probably getting a bit old to be a "cellar rat".'
He laughs at himself, relating how one French winery owner stood watching him attempt to hoist a heavy 500-litre oak barrel before pointing out: 'Ah non, we have ze forkleeft for zat, you Souz Africans you not know zees theeng?'
But he loves the overseas vintages for the culture, the food and wine, the experiences, the exchange of knowledge. The work can be really menial sometimes and you wonder what the hell you're doing there, but you always pick up something. And, although now I'm usually much older than the guys from other countries working in the cellars, it's a good way to keep in touch with the latest methods, new ideas, and get a fresh outlook. It keeps me inspired.'
Grilled sole with hollandaise sauce recipe by Boela Gerber served with lemon wedges and a green salad paired with Groot Constantia Chardonna...
Veal casserole, also known as blanquette de veau recipe by Boela Gerber paired with Groot Constantia Shiraz....