Though born in Port Elizabeth and raised in Gauteng as the son of a citrus farming consultant, Pierre Wahl found his way back to his 'rugby roots' in the Western Cape. The Winelands were not a far stretch for a boy who wanted to be a nature conservationist and then considered farming when travelling regularly with his dad.
It was the creativity and complexity of wine as a product that has so many different guises and developmental stages that caught his attention. The youngest cellar technology student of his year, he was a member of Elsenburg Agricultural College's Class of 1995, renowned for its crop of high achievers (including fellow Guild members Dewaldt Heyns, David Nieuwoudt, Frans Smit and John Loubser).
A stint with Niel Joubert Wines at Klein Simonsvlei in Paarl was followed by four vintages at Franschhoek winery M6reson. This was a watershed period for Pierre, who was immersed in all things wine and food, courtesy of energetic, entrepreneurial vintners and restaurateurs Richard and Evonne Friedman (Richard is acclaimed eatery Le Quartier Francais doyenne Sue Huxter's brother; Evonne's sister Peta is married to Nitída vintner and fellow Guild member Bernhard Veller).
Vineyard development; honing his skills [and winning awards] particularly with pinotage and chenin blanc; exploring wines that work with different dishes; travelling to Italy and 'experiencing that country's passion for wine and food'; this was what it out. And this is what Pierre took with him to Rijk's Private Cellar in 2002.
In 1997, former Cape Town luxury goods manufacturer Neville Dorrington had bought uncultivated land on the lower slopes of the Witzenberg range. In a very short time he'd established a small country hotel (having previously done so with The Farmhouse on the West Coast). He'd planted several types of vines (based on sound soil analysis and experienced viticultural consultancy - but against local advice to stick with fruit). And he’s started wowing the wine world with Rijk’s first young wines.
Pierre’s creative urges have had plenty of means of expression because of Dorington’s insistence on 'seeing what would work here'. Rijk's has been a pioneering project with regards to terroir for red as well as other more classical white wine grapes not historically associated with Tulbagh. Varieties were established in one-hectare blocks and the winemaker's job has been to see what produces the best quality.
Pierre Wahl has been turning out notable sauvignons and sémillons (and blends of the two), as well as chardonnay to challenge the Cape’s best. But it's traditionally ubiquitous South African variety chenin blanc that he especially enjoyed playing with, bottling various styles based on extended lees contact and different oaking regimens to please connoisseurs and quaffers alike.
As for reds, he works with the usual Rhône and Bordeaux classics, having previously produced some particularly outstanding shiraz under Rijk's Private Cellar and Rijk’s Estate labels (from a vineyard planted on the other side of the valley).
But it's home-grown variety pinotage with which Pierre and Rijk's have become inextricably linked. Rijk's Pinotage in all its guises has been a regular on the annual ABSA Top 10 listing of South Africa's best pinotages since 2000.
Despite accolades and achievements that reflect this contained, quietly confident winemaker's serious approach to winemaking, a distinctly boyish, mischievous streak lies just below the surface. Back in the kitchen, lined up three deep on top of a cupboard, commemorative bottles of fine wines enjoyed over the years are decorated here and there with a bride's garter.
'I always seemed to be the one to catch them at friends' weddings.' he muses, with that glint in the eye. But the oak wine-barrel head inscribed 'Pierre & Anli', used as a chopping board or hot plate holder, is a daily reminder of the time he started allowing someone else to catch the garter.
King prawns recipe by Pierre Wahl paired with Rijk's Chenin Blanc Reserve wine which compliments the chilli and lemon flavours....
Springbok fillet with port, pinotage and berry sauce recipe by Pierre Wahl paired with Rijk's Pinotage Reserve wine....