When John Loubser joined Steenberg for vintage 2002 and the family moved back to Cape Town, they would still go out to the farm 'nearly weekend' to attend to their vineyards and work on renovating the old 1930s farmhouse. (Karen's mom Rosemarie lives in a small place right next door)
Their first chardonnay grapes came onstream in 2004 and were trucked to Steenberg to be turned into their very own Cap Classique. The maiden Green Man Blanc de Blancs NV was released in 2007: a precious 500 six-bottle cases.
John Loubser had been making sparkling wine since his days at Môreson, subsequently learning from the master Ferreira at Graham Beck Robertson and finally putting it all into practice in Steenberg's 1682 Brut (now the 1682 Chardonnay from Robertson vineyards and the 1682 Pinot Noir from Steenberg and other cool-climate vineyards).
But there is great personal love and creativity in and Karen's The Green Man. They are outdoors people, nature lovers, hikers. The new millennium was not seen in crowds of people, but rather on a family camping trip with close friends (and dogs!) to the Namib desert. Silverthorn is so-named after the local Karoo Acacia, a striking tree with its profusion of large white thorns.
Their bubbly is named after the ancient mythical figure, usually depicted as a semi-foliate human head representing the fusion of man and nature. It's been recorded in ancient Babylon, East Asian countries such as India and Nepal, and in the abbeys and cathedrals of Western Europe.
For the Loubsers, their African Green Man is very real. In a series of evocative photographic montages by good friend Craig Foster (one half of the brother duo of filmmakers documenting southern Africa's indigenous people and their ties to the land), their right-hand man on the farm, Willem Willemse, has been immortalised as the face incorporated in images of vine leaves, vine stems, rocks, and succulents.
Nature plays an integral role in their lives as wine growers too. And they live with its might. A 2005 hailstorm - 'the worst in living memory apparently' - struck the area, causing random pockets of destruction: the Loubsers lost their entire crop.
'The vines were stripped of their leaves and the bunches were completely battered.' Luckily they were able to source grapes for a small bottling of their Green Man bubbly. Evidence of the violence of the storm remains: the stems of hardwood trees along the riverbank are permanently pockmarked.
The Breede River in flood has seen water lapping at the steps of their stoep leading onto a lawn sloping down to the river, where the family pootles about in boats. Nature's collectibles abound in the house, from driftwood to pebbles to quartz rock and ancient stone tools.
Karen's creative outlet is trawling second-hand shops 'rescuing' everything from a well-won: leather armchair to a wooden kist to a candelabrum; from crockery and fine linen to framed Chinese silks, old photographs, and precious prints.
But there's no clutter. Each piece shines against white walls and old Oregon pine floors and woodwork laboriously but lovingly stripped and sealed by hand by the couple in their spare time. Each object is special, intensely personal. 'They are all things that were once loved by someone and now, by having them here in our home, are being used and appreciated again.'
Amidst all this, they now have more than just The Green Man to look after. Their Genie Rosé is one of the few South African bubblies made from shiraz. A special cuvée, a traditional blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, is quietly aging on the lees for at least four years (due for release in 2013). And production has gone up... to some 2 000 six-bottle cases.
It's been made possible with investment and business back-up from two 'silent but very enthusiastic partners', both in banking and both avid wine lovers: John's brother Steven and his good friend Brett Nagle. It may not seem like much, but it's a big step for a part-time, weekends-only, much-loved small family farm.
Ceviche with salsa verde and shaved fennel salad recipe by John Loubser paired with Steenberg Reserve Sauvignon Blanc....
Spicy tomato consommé with grilled prawns recipe by John Loubser paired with Steenberg Sémillon wine....