The end of 2010 signified an important milestone for this vintner: his younger son Reenen, a graduate of Elsenburg's cellar technology course in 2009, was 'handed the keys to the cellar. 'It was a big moment, but it was time; he was ready.'
Reenen had worked in the L'Ormarins modern red wine cellar before spending three months doing the northern hemisphere harvest in the Rhône. Winery of Good Hope's French consultant Edouard Labeye, based in the southern Rhône and Languedoc-Roussillon and 'considered a bit of a rock star in the modern Rhône', gave him an introduction to a small winery, Domaine des Martinelles.
'They took him in; he became part of the Fayolle family. He was a changed young man when he returned, with a whole new insight into wine, not just as a product but as a way of life. It was good to see.'
The hard work, says Jacques, has been worth it. His older son Johan, practicing as a dentist in Somerset West, had considered emigrating. 'But when he saw what we were achieving on the farm, it persuaded him to stay and help build it up.' He's now involved part-time in getting the wine business 'up to speed' on formation technology and helping with marketing.
'Boschkloof is a family business, but you can't expect your kids to take up the baton; they have to want to.'
Proud mom Marina, who takes care of the accounts and the tasting room, remembers Reenen as a four or five-year-old tjokkertjie (nipper) in the La Motte tasting room, where she also did duty. 'You could just see his little head peek out over the counter as he tried to find leftovers; he's always loved the taste of wine.'
As has mom: Marina's favourite time of day is around 5 p.m., when she takes time out to enjoy the view from their garden towards the Helderberg. Down below lies the ravine that has given their wines their identity. It’s named Boschkloof for its thick undergrowth, a haven for duikers, the shy, small indigenous buck who are allowed to help themselves to grapes. 'They don't do too much damage,' say the nature-loving Bormans tolerantly.
Jacques Borman bottles just some 4 000 12-bottle and 8 000 six-bottle cases under the Boschkloof label. The remaining wine is sold 'to several good names'. Although his son is now cellar chatelain, they still work as a team, with Jacques Borman concentrating on the vineyards, the flagship Conclusion blend, and special bottlings earmarked for the Guild auction.
Other family projects include a private vinotheque at one end of the cellar, with wines stored in a honeycomb of arched, red clay-brick wall compartments Jacques Borman and his son built themselves. They're converting a shed into a 'farm-style tasting room. The plan is to offer visitors a platter of home-baked bread, farm cheeses, olives, pâtés, and Marina's onion marmalade made with Boschkloof Merlot, 'delicious with cheese!'
This is a family farm. 'We want to keep the personal touch, make visitors feel at home.' As Jacques says: 'It's back to the basics of winemaking at Boschkloof; we want to keep it simple and real.'
Chicken à la King recipe by Jacques Borman served with white rice and paired with Boschkloof Chardonnay wine....
Curried lamb neck with fruit recipe by Jacques Borman paired with Boschkloof Syrah wine....