Restaurateur, Braaier and Baker
Gary Jordan

It was, therefore, no stretch when the intrepid Jordans graduated to greater things on the food front, having started with a function venue and catering kitchen is overseen by Gary Jordan’s late mother Sheelagh. For some time contemplating a restaurant and deli, as well as sponsoring the 2008 London Restaurant Awards.

©Mike Carelse
Gary Jordan baking bread.

Their restaurant debut came courtesy of a 20-year friendship with fellow South African Neleen Strauss, who'd cut her teeth over the years on the South African and London restaurant scene with stints at Brown's and Vivat Bacchus as manager and co-founder respectively. 'She'd been wanting to go out on her own; we'd said: give us a call. And she did, just as the recession started biting!' 

The result is joint ownership of the all-new, Michelin-listed High Timber, the only London eatery with tables on the trendy Thames River embankment, revelling in views of the Millennium Bridge and close proximity to St Paul's Cathedral and the London Stock Exchange. 

It’s fine dining in a modern, informal environment (reflecting the Jordans' style) with the focus on meat (evoking its owners’ proudly South African heritage). The Cape’s finest food products, alongside rarities and classics from around the world, feature on chef Justin Saunders' menu, in the 4000-bottle wine cellar that includes a cornucopia of Guild auction wines, and in the cheese room with its complementary charcuterie, preserves, and jams. 

Meanwhile back at Jordan Wine Estate, the Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine opened its doors as the first signature chef restaurant in the Cape Winelands, bringing top chef George Jardine's brand of contemporary fare from city to country. Jordan Restaurant was voted among Eat Out's Top 10 in 2010 and 2011. (By coincidence, Jordan markets its wines under the Jardin label in the US due to the existence of a Jordan winery in California.) 

The couple's restaurant design ideas were echoed in subsequent renovations to their house nearby: bringing nature indoors through retractable plate-glass 'walls' overlooking lush green shrubbery, trees, and lawns beside the dam to the distant vineyards and mountains of Stellenbosch. 

The main feature of the couple's renovated home is a partially excavated private cellar under their stoep, extended with a large concrete slab. A labyrinth of small tunnels with barrel-vaulted ceilings a la Burgundy with the raw brick finished, unusually, in cream for a light, modern feel. Stairs lead up to a spacious. elegant dining room, also with glass 'walls' offering expansive views. Across an open deck is a stylish 'chill' room for Alex (the naturalist/ game ranger/part-time management science student considering a career as a golf pro) and Christy (photography and graphic design student), both of whom still come and go with mends. 

Home and restaurant kitchens share a large vegetable and herb garden. 'I like to go out there for something to smoke...' Gary pauses for effect - he's a bit of wit - and then speaks of George's meat smoker fashioned from wine barrels. 

'Gary likes to braai,' points out his wife. 'I also love baking bread,' he adds. 'And I love slow-roasted food. So I had to have the outdoor built-in braai and the wood-fired wall oven,' he confesses somewhat sheepishly, not liking to be seen as an extravagant man. He does beef fillet and enjoys pork cuts: fillet, ribs, chops. 'I like it simple with a pepper or mushroom sauce.' 

Simplicity and style are at the heart of everything the hard-working and thoughtful Gary and his creative wife and partner tackle. It's been integral to the achievement of what they've always regarded as their mission: delivering excellence, consistently and affordably. 

This is rare, in both the worlds of wine and food. But it's the result, they agree, of good groundwork, and that's Gary's metier. The Jordan brand's tagline 'synergy between soul and soil' is what the man is all about. That, and a lot of heart. 

By Wendy Toerien

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