The groundwork was in Gary Jordan's a bit of interest and expertise: he was studying geology at the University of Cape Town, has long been 'collecting rocks as a hobby. (This background is reflected in the naming of another Jordan star, The Outlier Sauvignon Blanc.)
He identified that Jordan's land was positioned over a fault line. Besides the variety of slopes (north, south, east, and west) at altitudes between 160 and 410 metres above sea level, the underlying geological structure and mineralisation (specifically tin and brecciated quartzite) of the ancient decomposed granite and shale-derived soils provide a range of microclimates. 'It's what makes Jordan special.'
These mineral-rich soils, however, were to cause headaches. In 2010 wine farms in the area faced possible expropriation of top-quality vineyards for mineral (including tin) prospecting. Although historically the site of minor mining operations, these had long since been shelved as commercially unviable.
None better than a geologist to tackle the issue and Gary led an expertly researched, well-publicised but diplomatically executed campaign that nipped the nonsense in the bud. (One of Jordan's acclaimed wines, a shiraz from a threatened vineyard, was promptly renamed The Prospector Syrah!)
In initially establishing some 10 grape varieties, the Jordans focussed on the European classics: chardonnay, riesling, sauvignon blanc, Chenin blanc, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, and shiraz.
They were the first to deliver chardonnay and merlot - the newly fashionable varieties in the Cape - to nearby Eersterivier co-operative winery. (Jordan remains synonymous with chardonnay, especially the premium Nine Yards, so named for 'going the whole nine yards' in achieving top quality.)
But when Gary eventually decided to change careers, he took the New World route. He enrolled for a master's oenology program at the University of California Davis (UC Davis), a renowned American wine education institution, where he was joined by his wife Kathy. A fellow UCT graduate with an economics major and merchandising experience, she had become similarly enthralled by wine during weekends and holidays spent on the Jordans' farm from schooldays.
After completing the course, the academically inclined couple decided to gain practical winemaking experience at Iron Horse Vineyards in the Alexander Valley in Sonoma County, while further rounding out their training with marketing courses at UC Davis. 'For two years we lived wine,' says Gary nostalgically.
In 1990 they returned home, fired up. Besides providing a name for their firstborn (duly dubbed 'Alexander the Grape' with irreverent Jordan good humour), their Sonoma sojourn had inspired design ideas for their own cellar. The simple but state-of-the-art winery built on several levels allowed for gravity flow throughout the winemaking process.
In their estimation, gentle handling of grapes and wine was a key element in achieving superior quality. In this, they were leaders on the local scene.
'We drew umpteen plans - something like 60 or so - before giving them to a draughtsman friend to finalise,' grins Gary. It was a testament, not so much to lack of expertise or not knowing what they wanted, but to the couple's uncompromising attitude towards achieving high standards.
Also, with their trademark positivism and progressiveness, they wanted the design (initially for a 350-ton crop) to cater for expansion. They started small, testing both cellar and market with characteristic circumspection. Only between 200 and 1 000 12-bottle cases each of Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Blanc Fumé (barrel-fermented sauvignon blanc), and Riesling were first bottled.
(They renamed their riesling The Real McCoy in 2010 after they and others in the Just Riesling interest group successfully lobbied for labeling legislation stipulating that 'riesling' be reserved for local wines made from the classic German variety, not the inferior crouchen blanc.)
Instant acclaim did indeed require expansion, of cellar and vineyard, just five years later. Now, 20 years on, they're handling nearly triple what they started out with.
Confit of Smoke Salmon on Avocado Pureé with creamed horseradish and cucumber jelly recipe by Gary Jordan...
Roasted springbok loin and frikadelle in red wine sauce recipe by cellar master Gary Jordan....