The Scientist
Etienne le Riche

Armed with a Stellenbosch University B.Sc. in viticulture and oenology obtained in 1971, Etienne spent two years in research at the Nietvoorbij oenological and viticultural research institute in Stellenbosch before joining the winemaking fraternity. 

©Mike Carelse
Etienne Riche in the vineyards.

During his 20 vintages living and working at Rustenberg, Etienne le Riche helped the Barlow family build on their historic Cape Dutch wine farm's status as a Cape ‘First Growth’. His time there was also marked by extensive travel as well as further study. Above and beyond his practical skills as a hands-on winemaker, Etienne has always been of intellectual mien: searching, questioning, challenging, reading broadly. 

In 1976 he spent three months in Europe, visiting and working in the major wine regions: Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Rhône, Champagne, the Rhine, and Rioja. In 1981, studying part-time while winemaker at Rustenberg, he earned an M.Sc. in viticulture. In 1983 he embarked on another world wine tour, back to Europe and specifically Bordeaux and then on to the North American wine regions of California and Washington State. 

After wide exposure to both Old and New World Wines, he's of the opinion that South Africa fits 'somewhere in between; essentially we should be making the best wines that this country can produce, irrespective of what others are doing.' 

But he relished the opportunity to see what he can do with cabernet sauvignon in its French homeland. A friend asked him to help make wine in his new cellar in Bergerac near Bordeaux. In exchange Etienne gets to vinify some wine for himself: a Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot blend called Le Riche Bergerac Grand Vin de Terroir, which he brings back to these shores for sale. 

Comparing the differences that such diverse regional terroirs can bring to the same variety appeals to the researcher, experimenter and scientist in him. And far from finding specialisation in a single variety limiting, he enjoys the finer nuances, the more acute observation of variations. 

Not that he's confining himself solely to cabernet. 'I may play around with sauvignon blanc and semillon sometime,' he muses. They're the varieties blended to make classic Bordeaux white. But it's also because he enjoys drinking white wines (Chardonnay and Riesling), as well as other reds such as Pinot Noir, quite as much as he does full-blooded cabernet and cabernet blends.

His white is afforded equally special treatment. 'I splashed out on some new oak for my Chardonnay in 2012,' says the thrifty vintner. 'But I'll re-use it as second or third fill for my Cabernet.' His Le Riche Chardonnay is made in the style he personally enjoys. 'It's lightly oaked, fresh and lemony; lovely with fish.' 

Which is particularly pertinent as Etienne le Riche is almost as passionate about fishing as he is about winemaking. But whereas his winemaking is essentially a solitary occupation, his fishing is especially social. 

By Wendy Toerein

Beef Fillet Recipe With Horseradish

Beef fillet recipe with horseradish and roasted beetroot by Etienne le Riche paired with Le Riche Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve....more

Marcelle’s Venison Pie Recipe

‘Marcelle’s family comes from the Little Karoo and her venison pie recipe is one of my favourites.’ - Etienne le Riche....more