Koue Bokkeveld 2x4 Route
Take the R303 from Ceres, up Gydo Pass, past the Winterhoek Mountains and Op Die Berg, through the Koue Bokkeveld then over the Kouebokkeveld Mountains on the Middelberg Pass into Citrusdal.
Do it in the late afternoon when the sharp mountains become like Mordor in Lord of the Rings. Look out for the sign at the top of Middelberg Pass warning of floods. Make a weekend trip of it by spending a night in a local cottage or guest house.
The Loneliest Road 2x4 Route
In conversations about which is the longest bit of road in South Africa between bits of 'civilisation', the R355 between Ceres and Calvinia always comes up. Head out of Ceres on the R46 and after 40 kilometres turn onto the R355; 104 kilometres later, much of it dirt, you'll get to Calvinia. Be sure to check your spare tyre before you leave.
A Historic Stop
Tollhouses were a feature of just about every country road in the Cape during the 19th century, when the colonial government expended much effort and finances getting its mountain passes built. Someone had to repay them and, as is increasingly the case today, it was the road user.
The toll needed a toll collector, who had to have a house, around which often accumulated a small settlement, including some kind of lodging for weary travellers.
There are only a few lonely tollhouses left, most having long ago fallen into ruin, The only one still offering sustenance to weary travellers is located near the base of Michell's Pass, where it begins its sweeping ascent of the ragged Witzenberg to Ceres.
This was the gateway of the wagon road north through the Koue Bokkeveld to the diamond fields; it was a vital place to stop for padkos then, and is a fine one still now (albeit under new management).
Snow is probably the key purpose luring most Capetonians to this region every winter, as Ceres’ snow-capped peaks are easily accessible. I...
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