Back Roads Towards the Sea
The gravel roads that lead west from Kamieskroon to the coast give the adventurous traveller an opportunity to visit some remote and unusual places. This area can be accessed by following signs to Soebatsfontein and Hondeklip Bay from various points along the N7.
Alternatively, for a more dramatic experience, drive through the Namaqua National Park towards Soebatsfontein and then wind your way along obscure back roads towards the sea.
The roads through the Namaqua National Park are quite rough for a non-4x4, but it is a magnificent journey that trundles through several uninhabited river valleys before reaching the little dorp of Soebatsfontein, 50 km from Kamieskroon. The name translates as ‘the spring of pleading’, apparently because a shepherd was captured by Bushman while drinking at the spring and had to beg for his life, which he lost.
Despite its rather melancholy name, this small cluster of houses exudes a gentle appeal. It has a post office, a couple of stores, where you can buy a refreshing cold drink to wash the dust from your throat, and a deeply abiding sense of peace and quiet. The short Boesman’s Uitkyk (Bushman’s Lookout) and Panorama hiking trails are close to the town, and permits and maps are available from the post office.
Bright Spurts of Spring Flowers
From here, continue south and east to Hondeklip Bay, although you will need to speak Afrikaans if you want to ask for directions. The road now leads through an undulating landscape, dotted with koppies and rocky outcrops. Occasional farmsteads offer the only visible reminder of human occupation, while herds of goats and sheep can be seen grazing gracefully on the shrubby slopes.
About 30 km south of Soebatsfontein, you’ll come to the Spoeg River (Spittle or Saliva River), which bubbles between small islands, covered with bright spurts of spring flowers. You’ll now head east, past the ruins of the briefly-prosperous village of Wallekraal, towards Hondeklip Bay. The river soon veers off to the left where it enters the sea near the Spoeg River Caves, but this area can only be reached as part of a 4x4 trail, ask for details at Namaqua National Park.
As you continue towards Hondeklip Bay, you’ll pass a turn-off for the De Beer’s controlled mining area of Koningaas. The presence of mine dumps and high fences indicate that this is a restricted area, and you should watch out for the heavy industrial vehicles that lumber along this part of the road. Finally, about 90 km from Kamieskroon, you’ll reach the sea at Hondeklip Bay.