Exploring the rambling grounds of this grand old lady provides a rare glimpse of life on a 17th-century Cape Dutch wine farm. At Boschendal the pace is leisurely, whether you’re sipping the latest vintage, taking tea, picnicking beneath the pines or dining under the stars.
A Treasure For All
Whether you come as a wine lover or a history buff, a visit to Boschendal is a pilgrimage of sorts. First granted to French Huguenot Jean le Long, fleeing religious persecution in the 1680s, the farm was acquired in the early 1700s by fellow French-born farmer Abraham de Villiers, whose family owned it until the late 1800s.
Then, together with neighbouring properties, it became part of the fruit-growing venture of politician and entrepreneur Cecil John Rhodes. When Rhodes Fruit Farms was taken over by mining monolith Anglo American in 1969 as part of its diversification into farming, Boschendal and adjoining La Rhone was restored as a single winemaking and historical entity.
Today, Boschendal Wines belongs to wine and spirits company DGB (Pty) Ltd, while the vineyards, orchards and historical core of Boschendal are owned by Tony Tabatznik and family.
Tabatznik is a South African-born former UK pharmaceutical mogul, philanthropist and social justice activist, whose investment in what was declared a National Monument pioneering wine tourism in the 1970s but threatened by private development in the early 2000s, has secured its existence as a heritage site and working farm, open to all through its various agricultural operations and hospitality offerings.
A good way to begin your visit is with a guided tour of the vineyards and cellar. From a viewing site far up the Simonsberg you can see the full extent of the property: all 2240 hectares of it, of which just 200 hectares of carefully selected high-lying sites are now devoted to vines.
Fynbos is all around - Boschendal is a BWI (Biodiversity & Wine Initiative) member - and flowering stands of pincushions attract long-tailed Cape sugarbirds and brilliant green malachite sunbirds.
Wines For All
To wine lovers the winery is awe-inspiring. Part of Anglo American’s 1997 multimillion upgrade, it includes a dedicated red wine production facility featuring a single, flexible ceiling block of concrete from which 42 stainless steel tanks are suspended.
When full, they hold a mighty 880 000 litres of wine. Next door, in a cool, dimly lit hall, rest row upon row of French oak barrels: about 3500 in total. All in all, Boschendal turns out some 500 000 cases of wine a year.
Assisted by white and red wine specialists, and a dedicated sparkling wine maker, cellarmaster Jacques Viljoen produces an array of wines in different price and style ranges under the Heritage Collection, Special Cuvée, Appellation Series, 1685 and Reserve labels.
The specialties, though, are Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz, so make a point of tasting those. Shiraz features in the flagship Grande Syrah and Black Angus, as well as the Special Cuvée Nicolas, while the Sauvignon Blanc (starring in the classic Bordeaux-style blend Suzanne, Appellation Series delicately oaked version, and the 1685 Grande Cuvée), is supplemented from fruit sourced from premium cool-climate sites in Elgin and elsewhere.
Boschendal’s decades-old name for classic méthode champenoise wines has been cemented by the more recent extension of its collection, now comprising several premium bottle-fermented sparkling wines for the connoisseur, including a Brut Rosé, and the Luxe Nectar, a non-vintage in off-dry style for more widespread appeal. There is also a premium copper pot-still estate brandy.
Tastings are held at The Werf Restaurant in the original old cellar of the manor house. Or you can sit outside under the canopy of a centuries-old oak and appreciate the wine, the beautifully restored La Rhone werf (farmstead) and views of the Simonsberg peeking out between the manor house and the early 19th-century cellar. Platters are available.
A stroll through the nearby Exhibition Vineyard Block, where each of the classic wine varieties are nurtured, will give you a rare insight into the variations in berry, bunch and leaf size and shape. During harvest, freshly picked grapes are provided so that you can taste the differences between the varieties.
Entertainment For All
The Boschendal homestead is to the history buff what the winery is to the wine lover. The 1812 manor house, now a museum finished with old Cape items reflecting Dutch, Flemish, French and English influences, lets you glimpse what life was like centuries ago.
Celebrating the indigenous heritage of the Cape’s wine farms is an adjacent gallery run in collaboration with the Norval Foundation, featuring South African and African artists.
Take time out on a bench in the rose garden; peek into the fowl run, a cobble-stoned enclosure shaded by a magnificent mulberry tree; stroll up the oak-shaded formal walk; or admire the different styles of Cape Dutch and Flemish gables on the restored farm buildings dating back to 1802.
Today these buildings are home to a range of activities reflecting the farm’s vibrant role in the local community, while providing a host of visitor attractions.
The Werf Restaurant in the refurbished original cellar of the manor house offers a contemporary, seasonal ‘soil-to-fork’ menu. Greens are from the nearby, professionally managed Werf Food Garden, on view from the restaurant’s conservatory.
Meats are from the large herd of Black Angus cattle, naturally reared Duroc pigs and free-range chickens. The Deli, with its hearty farm fare, is a more casual option, and supplies the picnic baskets for enjoyment on the lawns under Boschendal’s trademark towering stone pine trees.
The orchards, traditionally integral to the spread’s commercial agricultural enterprise, have been significantly revitalised and expanded.
Smaller cottage industries have been joined by artisanal businesses, either owned or run by former farm employees and local community members to supply produce and goods for the farm’s eateries and outlets like the Farm Homeware Shop & Butchery, as well as the Friday night markets.
Boschendal’s doors have also been thrown open for stay-overs in a variety of accommodation places, from the historic, restored Rhodes Cottage, secluded Trout Cottage and expansive Mountain Villa to a selection of differently sited and delightfully appointed Werf and Orchard cottages. Guests (and day visitors) can roam the farm on horseback, mountain bike or foot.
Add organised, seasonal events, from open water swims in a farm dam to the outdoor ‘drive-in’ cinema shows to childrens’ outdoor experiences, and it explains why the new-look Boschendal found itself on the 2020 best family hotels listing by international publication Condé Naste Traveler.
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