Whale Watching Route
Itinerary Day 3 - Hermanus to Arniston

Drive from Hermanus to Stanford and visit a brewery. Lunch and whale-watching through Die Kelders and Gansbaai. After a visit to Elim, stand at the southern tip of Africa at L'Agulhas. Overnight in Arniston, or fast-track back to Cape Town on the N2. Make this a longer adventure by linking this route to the Golf, Adrenalin or Country Routes via Swellendam.

Hermanus to Stanford

©Richard Innfield
Stanford a great destination to explore on your way to Arniston.

From the monument on the square, take the Main Road (which becomes the R43) out of Hermanus, following signs for Stanford, Gansbaai. At about 23 km, turn right into Stanford. It takes a while to leave Hermanus as the town sprawls for several kilometres along Walker Bay, then there's a really pretty stretch of road with the mountains before you turn to Stanford. This is a delightful, sleepy country village that seems poised to become the next tourist hotspot.

The Birkenhead Brewery is an exclusive micro-brewery, restaurant and pub with beautiful views. Tour the brewery and taste their beers - a lager, a kolsch, a traditional German wheat beer and a 'chocolate' milk stout. Ask the brewmaster to explain how beer is actually slimming. Enjoy the birdlife on a stroll along the Klein River, hire a boat from Klein River Boat Hire, or take a cruise.

The African Queen River Cruises accommodates up to 40 people, while the smaller Platanna River Trips take eight to nine. People drive all the way from Cape Town to eat at Mariana's Deli and Bistro at Owl's Barn. She offers home-grown organic ingredients (where possible) and you can choose from a wide selection of freshly baked breads, pastas, mustards and salad dressings to take home with you.

Stanford to Elim

At four-way stop, continue along R43 through Gansbaai. Ignore first turn to Elim, Baardskeerdersbos. At 54 km, take left on gravel to Elim, Bredasdorp, Struisbaai, and L'Agulhas. Fork left to Elim at 60 km. At T-junction (64 km), take left to Elim, Wolvengat. Follow the curve of the road to the right. Enter Elim at 77 km; park at the church.

The road turns back towards the sea after Stanford, and there are excellent whale-watching opportunities all along Die Kelders to Gansbaai and Danger Point, the rocky promontory infamous for wrecking HMS Birkenhead in February 1852, with the loss of 445 lives.

The turn-off to Danger Point, about one kilometre beyond Gansbaai, takes you to a lighthouse and a blowhole that, in really rough seas, can shoot a plume of water up to 10 metres high. Birkenhead Rock can be seen at low tide. Gansbaai is regarded as one of the best shark-diving sites in the world, so do give it a go. 

The town of Elim is a quaint Moravian Mission station. Established in 1824, Elim is a national monument and it's really as if time has stood still. Opposite the church is South Africa's only monument celebrating the emancipation of slaves. It's seriously low-key, but definitely unique. Ask the tourism bureau about guided tours, accommodation and lunch bookings.

Elim to L'Agulhas

The Agulhas lighthouse is one of L'Agulhas' tourist attractions.

Just past the church, take right to Bredasdorp, Struisbaai, L'Agulhas. At 34 km, T-junction right to R319 Struisbaai, L'Agulhas on tar. Keep straight through Struisbaai to L'Agulhas lighthouse at 46 km. The gravel road leaving Elim goes through beautiful farmlands stretching to the dusty purple Bredasdorp mountains in the distance. Slow down to look at some original whitewashed fishermen's houses on either side as you enter Struisbaai. 

These cottages are known as Hotagterklip, after a rocky outcrop that caused a sharp detour on the original wagon route. Struisbaai also boasts a stunning beach that sweeps around the bay. What L'Agulhas may lack in architectural charm, it makes up for in geographic fame - this is the southernmost point of the African continent, and the waves pounding these rugged rocks mark the confluence of the Indian and Atlantic oceans. The precise point is marked by a plaque about one kilometre past the lighthouse.

It's worth climbing the lighthouse tower not only for the view, but to glimpse the surprisingly tiny light bulb that nevertheless pumps out the light equivalent of seven and a half million candles. Make time for the museum, which sheds light on the history of lighthouses around the country, not only this one. After your climb up the tower, rest up in the restaurant. There are also a couple of pubs and restaurants in L'Agulhas itself.

L'Agulhas to Arniston/Waenhuiskrans

©Steve Buissinne
Arniston has many beautiful fisherman's cottages on display.

Return through L'Agulhas and Struisbaai. At 23 km, turn right on gravel to Arniston/Waenhuiskrans, De Mond, Prinskraal. At Prinskraal (30 km), T-junction left then immediately right to Arniston. At 37 km, T-junction to the right on tar R316 Arniston. At 43km, turn left at stop street to Arniston Hotel. 

Arniston is an enchanting fishing village of great beauty, with authentic fishermen's cottages on the hill, deep blue sea and a long beach for tranquil walks. And take your binoculars because this part of the coast also has the biggest concentration of whale cow-and-calf pairs in the country. Arniston's official name is Waenhuiskrans , after a huge sea cave that local settlers said was big enough to shelter several wagons and their oxen.

It's an easy 20-minute walk to the cave (about 2 km) - best is along the seafront with its rocky shelves, arches and eroded rocks, or you can go by road. It's only accessible at low tide for a couple of hours so check with a local resident for the best time to go. 

With an overnight stay in Arniston, you can enjoy a delicious dinner with your loved ones and comfortable lodging right on the ocean.

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