The best time to visit Kei Mouth is year round, but it can get a bit muggy in summer. The climate is mild with temperatures seldom below freezing or above 35 degrees Celsius.
If it’s summertime on the Wild Coast, anything goes in the great outdoors. Hike the scenic Strandloper Trail (or the Wild Coast Meander if you’re keen to sleep in a comfy bed at night), otherwise wander off on a day tramp to Double Mouth Nature Reserve. Saddle up for a horse ride along the cliffs, surf a solid point break, go game viewing, watch humpback whales or simply soak up the sun on the beach.
The Strandloper Trail is top of the list when it comes to slack-packing, allowing you to savour the solitude of an unspoilt beach by day, while bedding down in a luxury hotel every night. Start off at Kei Mouth, the southern tip of the Wild Coast, and chill all the way to Gonubie. Follow in the footsteps of the ancient Strandlopers (or Beach Walkers) and step into their world of wave-washed shores, tranquil tidal pools, pristine estuaries and leafy forests.
Each section of the trail reflects unique aspects of the Eastern Cape coast, thus capturing myriad nuances along the route. Tidal river crossings necessitate waterproof bags and rope. Booking is essential along this 60 km four-day trail. The route is clearly marked and can be walked throughout the year, although the best weather is generally between February and May. Some of the trail can also be completed with a vehicle, so gear up for a 4x4 adventure.
You can mountain bike from Kei Mouth to Morgan Bay and then out of town along a gravel track heading west just above the main beach onto the dramatic cliffs rising above the Wild Coast surge. The cliff-top trail makes for technical riding as it is a local hiking trail, so keep it tidy. You could also stick to the steep jeep-track just inland from the cliffs.
Double Mouth is just on 4 km away from Morgan Bay. For a beefier ride, jump on the Kei Ferry and head up the steep gravel road on the other side, looking for a jeep-tack to your left once you’re at the top. Enjoy the view before crank/carrying down to the beach and across the Gxara River. From here, crank about 2 km along the beach until you find a jeep-track turning inland.
Follow this track past local homes, keeping right at the fork and right again when you hit the tar road down to Qolora Mouth. Leave the tar where you came in earlier, climbing back up to the ‘village’. Instead of turning left to go back down to the beach, you can head straight up and on through a small forest.
Keep your eyes peeled for a trail on your left; walk this descent if you’re not a technical buff. A steep crank up the other side takes you through a traditional Xhosa village, spitting you out onto the main dirt road and back to the ferry crossing.
For maybe as long as 1 500 years, Xhosa people have been herding their cattle up and down the Wild Coast beaches and among the hummocky seaside hills, from grassland patch to patch, village kraal to kraal, creating a network of narrow animal paths that today are used by happy hikers and mountain-bike travellers.
From the Mkulu base near Kei Mouth, you can ride these trails on horseback, gallop along lonely beaches, or go on a more demanding overnight trail, whatever you prefer. Also up to you is whether you stay in a small seaside hotel or B&B, or camp outdoors like a real cowboy or cowgirl.
By Jacques Marais