The Great Hex River Valley

Vineyards, Orchards and Dams

Bounded by the Hex River and the Quadu mountains, the 22-kilometre-long Hex River valley is a beguiling mixture of vineyards, orchards and dams. One of the most scenic valleys in South Africa, the Hex River is especially attractive in autumn, when the vineyards are transformed by a kaleidoscope of autumn hues. 

©Louise Brodie
Autumn View, Hex River Valley.

In winter, snow often mantles the peaks, which are dominated by the Matroosberg (2 250 metres). Planted with over eight million vines on 3 500 hectares under irrigation, the Hex River Valley is the largest producer of export table grapes in southern Africa.

Over 50 per cent of the country's export table grapes, mainly Barlinka, are produced here. The town of De Doorns owes its name to the many thorn bushes that grew here when stock farmers first settled the valley.

For visitors travelling by train, the scenery is no less spectacular. To eliminate the many tight curves of the original railway line, a new one - featuring four new tunnels totalling 16 km in length - was brought into service in 1989. Who would imagine that the famous autumn vineyards of the loveliest valley in South Africa owe their glorious golden colour to a nasty leaf-roll virus!

The prize-winning shots are taken when early snow coats the Hex River mountains in a white blanket while the vines still retain their gilt edge. The best vantage point is just north of a narrow cutting where the road from De Doorns begins to wind down to Worcester.

The Hex of Hex River

Legend has it that the Hex River valley and mountains get their name from the bewitched spirit. In the mid 1 700s, beautiful Eliza Meiring lived on the farm Clovelly in the Hex River Valley.

She had many suitors, so she set them a task: the first one who could bring her back a wild orchid from the Matroosberg, the highest peak of the surrounding Hex River Mountains, could court her.

But the man she most admired, and whom she thought most likely to succeed, lost his footing and fell to his death.

Eliza went out of her mind with grief, and would not come down from where she mourned in the attic, until one moonlit night she jumped out the attic dormer window to her death. It is said the ghost of Eliza formerly wanders about when the full moon lights up the Matroosberg.

Breede River

©Louise Brodie
Snow capped mountains and Breede River, Hex River Valley.

The Breede rises in the Hex River Mountains, in a deep and dark gorge behind Michell’s Pass that takes three days to descend, starting behind Waaihoek Peak.

From there it flows between the jagged Hex River and Slanghoek ranges, sneaks one way around the Du Toitskloof Mountains past Worcester (where it is temporarily held up in Brandvlei Dam), and sinks the other way around the Langeberg and through the superlative wine region of Robertson. From there, it's pretty much sailing to the sea at Cape Infanta.

Between Mountains

The Cape Fold mountains are the most south-westerly outlying refuge of the Afro-montane flora: montane trees are confined to river courses while a distinct Mountain Fynbos vegetation has established itself on the contorted parallel ranges..

Witels Kloof in the Hex River Mountains is a spectacular cleft, incised deep into the middle of the most inhospitable mountains of the region.

The bottom of the gorge is a place of great beauty, where trees and flowers soften the harshness of the high peaks and ridges; water as clear and fresh as liquid wind rushes over the polished boulders and forms deep, chill pools.

Red disas grow on mossy banks, their brilliant red heads nodding to the rhythm of the river's melody, while on narrow ledges that line the kloof gorgeous 'painted ladies' (Gladiolus sp.) peer coyly down on the splendid scene.

By David Bristow

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